The manual above is very technical and written for someone overhauling these scopes. For a user manual, check out this link. If you are looking to zero the wind age and elevation knobs, I have not found it necessary to remove the smaller nut. I've been able to use a standard, hollow ground screwdriver to loosen up the large nut, lift and rotate the adjusting knob, then secure the large nut. I believe the elevation knob, once zeroed, is calibrated for M2 ball ammo.
61HRM14 August 15th, 2013 10:22 AM.
Tokiwartooth is also looking for an M84 repair outfit, so you might contact him. I had my M84 'repaired' by Parsons.
Right now I'm dealing with ART II issues. Parsons is VERY expensive. I was quoted 6 months turn around, and that became a year. 'Squirrel season'.
That was the excuse every time. $360 to clean it and fix an internal retainer ring and chase threads I buggered, and they didnt even replace $8 retainer ring. I would have sent them a new one i bought from Sarco. There is a guy, Bill Biller, in PA who also does work.
I sent him a Weaver 2.5 to rewire the crosshair. Told me 4 weeks. 9 months later, I just told him to mail the broken scope back to me. He was sick, getting chemo, but never told me that. Not sure how he is today. I fixed it myself with epoxy and crosshair wire I bought. 20 damn minutes, it took me.
Ironsights just told me 12-14 months to fix my ART II. 12 - 14 months. Problem is, it's one man outfits.
Mike Sexton is the only person on the planet who has parts and skill for the Vintage Leatherwoods. I pray he is healthy, happy and lucky.;) So. That's your choices. Someone is selling real m84 turret caps on EBay. If there is nothing wrong with the internals of your scope, I wouldn't even bother with Parsons. A couple of spots on the glass, leave it.
It's dried sealant. It's just going to come back anyway. I already see new spots on mine. They ship it out for bluing anyway, but do take it apart and have the tube hot blued.
You can try cold bluing it yourself. I did a Lyman. Use the Brownells creme, and warm it up with a hair dryer. Just get the repro caps from Sarco.
Photodex proshow gold 7.0.3518 crack. I have two M84s. I got the 2nd one from some antique place in PA. $550, missing 'parts'. Couple of relists. It was too much.
Time to pounce, do my Toki move. Contact them directly, always get it cheaper. It was in the best shape I've ever seen an M84. 3 months ago. Was missing the eyecup and sunshade. Thank god they weren't a collector, or they would have figured out $70 in parts, and they could sell it for $900, easy. Got the eyepiece on EBay, original.
Sunshade, retainer spring from Sarco. $620 in, and have a practically brand new M84.
After getting a beautiful M1D with all accessories from the last year, I went in search of information on the M84. Not much out there! A friend loaned me his 1947 copy of War Department Technical Manual TM9-1275 Ordnance Maintenance, U.S.
Rifles, Cal.30, M1C and M1D (Sniper's). This lists specs on the M81 and M82 scopes as follows: wt. Of scope - 0.84 lb Focus - Universal Maximum useful range - 800 to 1,000 yd Field of vision at 100 yd - 35 ft Magnification - 2.5 X Eye relief - 5 in. Both were Lyman Alaskan scopes produced for the military.
The M81 had a cross-wire reticle and the M82 a tapered post, otherwise they were identical.The reticle was internally adjustable for windage and elevation in one minute of angle clicks. Numerical graduation marks had a value of two m.o.a.
The M84 scope replaced the M81 and M82 and was standard issue in April 1945. Peter Senich provided the most detailed information on these scopes that I have found in his book LIMITED WAR SNIPING, Paladin Press, 1977. I found this book at the library while researching info.
On the M1D and M84. Chapter 4, Semi-Automatic Sniping System, The M1 Garand, goes into considerable detail on the history of the M1C, M1D and their scope and mount development programs.
Page 63 opens the history on the M84 in early 1945. As a 2.2 X conventional design (T134) very similar to the M82, it was to compete in field tests against 3 X and 4.5 X designs in June of '45. For unknown reasons those scopes were rejected and the T134 adopted in April '45 as the M84. It has a universal focus, field of view is 27 feet at 100 yd, diameter is.870 in., length with rubber eye-piece and sunshade extended is 13.2 in., the reticle is a post with horizontal cross-wire, eye relief is 5 in. And it was sealed with rubber gaskets to keep out moisture.
In my shooting with it, the top of the post appears to subtend 3 m.o.a., or 3 in. At 100 yd, 6 in. The elevation dial has 32 threads per inch which provides 40 m.o.a.
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Of vertical movement of the post for one complete revolution of the drum. The finger adjustable knob gives 1 m.o.a. For each click, which are usually felt rather than heard.
The elevation scale starts at zero yards and elevates to 900 yards with line marks every 50 yd. And numbers at each hundred yard increment. The windage knob has 20 m.o.a. Adjustment both left and right of zero. It has a total windage range of 100 m.o.a.
To allow for any mount misalignment. Like the elevation knob, each click moves the post 1 m.o.a. Since the M84 was to replace those M81/82 scopes coming out of service, only a small number had been produced by the end of WW2. Certainly, none saw combat.
The M84 was standard for the M1C, M1D and Springfield M1903-A4, but was not available in quantity until the Korean War. Libby-Owens-Ford was the military contractor. The M1D/M84 combination was a sniper rifle that could be assembled at the division armorer level as no drilling and tapping of the reciever was required as with the M1C.
As a result, many more M1D's were prepared and distributed, seeing service into the late 70's. An additional source of information on the M1D/M84 is the book, THE LONG RANGE WAR: SNIPING IN VIETNAM by Peter Senich, 1994. In chapter 1 he goes into some detail on the build up of U.S. Military activity in the 60's and their reliance on the M1D. Very detailed information with excellent black and white photo's showing details of the various rifle/scope combinations in development are included. As to the number of M84 scopes produced, the only hint I could locate was in a photo credit Senich gives on page 19, '.with a total of well over 40,000 M84 telescopic sights manufactured before production finally ended, and with the U.S. Policy of 'surplus disposal' such as it is, this 2.2 power scope will undoubtedly remain in service someplace on this globe for years to come.'
I'm just grateful that the CMP made these M1D Garands available to good citizens and that I was fortunate enough to draw one in the last lottery. And what a fine specimen it is. Original Springfield in the 3022xxx serial range with a 1952 SA barrel with a fresh crown, milled SA trigger guard with all matching parts, new M84 in the original sealed packaging, clean walnut stock with no dents or dings and all the proper stamps, uniform grey parkerizing and all the accessories! I just couldn't wait to get it all put together, cleaned, lubed and out to the range for a test drive, (which ought to drive the collectors/profiteers crazy).
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As an ex-SWAT team counter-sniper I have a real appreciation for the origins of our current equipment. The M1D/M84 was a real evolutionary step that led us to the more accurate systems that we benefit from today. Of course it doesn't deliver the pin point precision that a tuned Rem. 700 or Stoner SR-25 will, and the lateral zero shift at different ranges must be accepted, but I wouldn't volunteer to thumb my nose at a competent marksman within 600 yards. My rifle groups into 2 m.o.a., or less at 200 yards and the zero is relatively repeatable if the same hand only torque and positioning is applied to the mount.
Calibration of elevation adjustments coincide very well out to 600 yards with the M 72, 174 grain fmjbt match ammo or equivilent reloads using the Sierra 168 grain Matchking. As Senich points out, the interior black coating used to retard light scatter in the M84 has a tendancy to flake and adhere to the interior lens surfaces. So what, just ignore it like a couple of generations of soldiers have. File scavenger 4.3 keygen. In my area we put on a 'Vintage Sniper's Rifle' match once each summer. All prone, 20 rounds at 300, 500 and 600 yards. Any nations 'as issued' Korean War or earlier sniper rifle qualifies. Snugging the M1D into my shoulder with a tight leather sling, checking the post for vertical, the wind direction and velocity, and the mirage boil, I can smell the leather cheek piece as breathing is checked and slack taken from the trigger.
Concentration of focus spirals through the M84 and I'm transported to other times and places when men at arms gambled far higher stakes. For some reason, this keen appreciation of history, and freedom, just doesn't occur with the SR-25 from the 600 yard line. Hope this assists you in your search for more information on the M84.Bruce Jackson. The M84 is a sealed scope. After 50-60 years, many of them have seals that have dried & cracked.
You may just be seeing moisture trapped inside your scope; try warming it gently with a hair dryer to see if that resolves the problem. In any case, it is probably time to send your scope to a repair technician for complete service, including new seals & nitrogen. I believe Neal's recommendation is on target. Here is a list of technicians courtesy of Nicolaus and asssocates.
Elsewhere on the Nicolaus website you find a available a very high quality reproducttion of the M84 TM and another document which is a compilation of M84 drawings. Regards, Jim. It sounds like your objective lense assembly is not screwed in far enough. The front window is removable and you will see the objective assembly (there is a locking ring holding it in place). You will need to unscrew the locking ring 1/4 turn so the objective assembly can be screwed toward the reticle. This adjusts the parallax of the scope also.
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You want to set the parallax of the scope to 150 yards (measure out something that is 150 yards away). Look at the 150 object thru the scope while it is laying on a table or rest. Move your head up and down, or left to right slightly. If parallax is set properly, the 150 yard object will not move in relation to the reticle. If parallax is not set correctly, the 150 yard object will move in relation to the reticle. The ojective assembly might be hard to turn due to sealant. You will have to make a wrench to fit the assembly.
I made one out of a piece of steel tubing. Send me your email address and I will send you some photos of what this looks like. It sounds like your objective lense assembly is not screwed in far enough. The front window is removable and you will see the objective assembly (there is a locking ring holding it in place). You will need to unscrew the locking ring 1/4 turn so the objective assembly can be screwed toward the reticle. This adjusts the parallax of the scope also.
You want to set the parallax of the scope to 150 yards (measure out something that is 150 yards away). Look at the 150 object thru the scope while it is laying on a table or rest. Move your head up and down, or left to right slightly.
If parallax is set properly, the 150 yard object will not move in relation to the reticle. If parallax is not set correctly, the 150 yard object will move in relation to the reticle. The ojective assembly might be hard to turn due to sealant. You will have to make a wrench to fit the assembly. I made one out of a piece of steel tubing.
Send me your email address and I will send you some photos of what this looks like. Sorry to bump this thread but I would love a pic of the tool. I sent you a PM. By the way, here is the scope in question plus the rifle it is attached to.
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